boataccessories - oars - © 1999/2001 Frank Ellinghaus -
P O S T Frank
H O M E
Bootsbau Index DEUTSCH boatbuilding index ENGLISH
L I N K S ENGLISH

building the hull Accessories The "sailplan" "taping" the sail launcher

mast    boom    sprit    sail    rig    rudder    deck     seats    oars    more about oars    tupperware    fastenings   

More about Building Oars

I found some very interesting articles in the newsgroup rec.boats.building on building cheap oars . I liked two of them so much, that I asked the authors consent to have them included to my boatbuilding page.

Here they are:

Donald Hodges article:

I have made several pairs of oars using split studs as previously described; additionally, I set my circular saw at 45 degrees and rip the stock to octagonal shape. I make blades in bulk by laminating 6 oz. glass to both sides of 1/8 luan doorskin. My blades are 5 inches by 22 inches, with a taper from the 17 inch point to the 22 inch point from 5 inches down to the dimension of the stock. The tapered part of the blade fits into the slit in the stock, the slit is just the ordinary kerf of a saw blade. I also radius the corners of the blades using a coin to mark the curve tangent to the edges. These oars take a few more minutes but are quite satisfactory . If you want curved blades, leave a 1-inch tab on the ends of the blades, drill a 1/8 hole and precurve the blades with a piece of cord or fishline before laminating. The blade will retain about half the curve. Saw off the tabs before painting the blades.

Don Hodges Lynn Haven, FL
There is a site editet by Don Hodges ecoastlife.com. You can find here several pictures about the 1999 Small Boat Messabout.


When I asked Michael Colfer he wanted to give credit for his article to Rich Kolin, since he taught him building oars. So thank you Rich for teaching Michael this oar building method, and thank you Michael for passing it on to the newsgroup.

Michael Colfers article:

I have the good fortune to be a part of the Puget Sound chapter of the Traditional Small Craft Association. Last year, Rich Kolin, one of our members, gave us a very informative workshop on oar making. I had never tried before as I thought it was difficult and expensive. Since then I have made three pair of oars, each pair from one 2X6 from the local lumber yard. Choose a 2X6 that is free from knots if you can find one - and it is worth looking around to do so. Otherwise get one with only tiny knots that are tight. All three pair of my oars are quite handsome and work very well. The problem with making oars out of junk is that you get oars that will not entice young people to keep rowing. With the 2X6 method, you get a really nice pair of oars. You have not mentioned what size the boats are. Generally, you want your oars to be twice the beam of the boat, plus a bit, but that depends a lot on the freeboard of the boats. If they are traditional boats [i.e. with low freeboard] this system works well. You will still need some way to attach the oars to the boats. The simplist way is a pin driven into a prebored hole at the location where you would otherwise install rowlocks. Then you keep the oar on the pin with a loop of line. Here is how you make the pair of oars from the 2X6.

Rip the 2X6 into three equal strips of approx 1 1/2 inches [sometimes you get 1 5/8, depends on the wood you get, and your table saw blade thickness]. Take one of these strips and cut it into four equal lengths [a bit under 2' if your 2X6 was an 8' one]. Glue two of these strips to each oar to make the rough blade. Here is the only tricky part: the grain of the oar piece must lie so that the grain runs in the same direction as the length of the boat. When you apply pressure, you do not want that pressure applied on the flat grain. The flat grain, in other words, will lie against the gunnel. Glue your short pieces so that the pieces are glued to the flat grain of the oar [the long piece]. After the glue has set up, draw a low angled shape on the tip so that there is a point in the center of the blade. Draw a longer angle at the loom end of the blade. Round the handle of the oar so that it is smooth and round and fits your hand and is about 6" long. Draw a line from the inner end of the blade shape to a point about 16" from the inner end of the handle and cut that away. In other words, you want the oar to taper from inside of the oar lock position to the inner end of the blade, where it flares out to the blade width [which will be 4 1/2 inches]. Once the hape is cut, then shave it down with a plane and sandpaper. In point of fact, I use an electric plane and a grinder. Hollow the blade a bit each side of the center line, and shape it to about 3/4" at the tip. You can go thinner, but that will do. Sand the oar and apply a couple of coats of Helmsman varnish or a finish of your choice.

Of course, Rich Kolin's oars look very professional and mine just look nice. Yes, you can spoon the blades if you like, and it will look lovely and maybe even work better. I never have, but I might sometime. My oars cost $7 a pair and take me three hours to make for the pair of them, which is about what it will take to make a pair out of plywood and sticks. Give your kids oars they'll be proud to own, and which will make them want to row again and again. There is nothing half so worth doing as getting kids to mess about in boats.
See also the book Skiffs and Schooners by R D Culler, and read his chapter on oars and rowing. [Then you'll read it all - it's that kind of book.] Happy rowing.

Michael Colfer
Whidbey Island, Washington


Here is a link to David Goodchild´s oar building description using scrap plywood for the blades and pvc-pipe for the handles: Oars from plywood and pvc (extern link).

Last but not least some theory about rowing and oar building at Website and on Jim Michalak´s articles   new about oar building and rowing.

mast    boom    sprit    sail    rig    daggerboard    rudder    deck     seats    oars    more about oars    tupperware    fastenings   

building the hull Accessories The "sailplan" "taping" the sail launcing" the sail launcher
P O S T Frank
H O M E
Bootsbau Index DEUTSCH boatbuilding index ENGLISH
L I N K S ENGLISH